Visitors are stunned by the precious views of the valley, gorgeous palaces, mansions and churches of this big town in the centre of Sicily. Tourism has not upset the traditional every day style. The cult to the goddess of fertility and agriculture has been core to the region of Enna for centuries. As to legends go Persephone was drawn by the flowers to the lake banks of Lago di Pergusa. For centuries Enna was a generous source of grain, wheat, cotton and cane for the different peoples that controlled the town. Wheat is still a strong source of production for the country.
What to See and Do
Enna is made up of two parts: the upper one is the historic oldest part and Enna Bassa is the most modern part of town.
Castello di Lombardia on Piazza Mazzini was constructed by the Saracens and later modified by the Normans. Frederick II of Hohenstaufen had a wall with 20 towers constructed. We can still admire 6 out of the 20 towers and the walls.
The walls hem in many courtyards among which the Courtyard of Saint Martin hosts summer theatre performances. Torre Pisano is accessed from this courtyard. From the top the views of Mount Etna and Calascibetta are fantastic weather permitted for fog is a typical feature of Enna. The Torre di Federico II was long ago accessed by passageways. It is today part of the public gardens of Enna and was in the past a tower of the ones Frederick had constructed. The Temple of Ceres or Demeter is located north of the Castello di Lombardia.
Enna was an important site of adoration of the goddess of fertility and agriculture. According to legends king Triptolemus was the only man who saw how Hades raped Persephone. The goddess acquainted him with all her knowledge on agriculture which helped the region be a prosperous one. It is said that a statue of the king was housed in the temple. Around the temple there are no fences which makes it a great picnicking setting.
Via Roma is a thoroughfare where the cathedral lies, a beautiful pastiche of styles in which each power left its marks. After the fire in the 15th century, the reconstruction was carried out incorporating the baroque style.
The Gothic previous façade was hidden behind the facade and bell tower. Its baroque interior features grey basalt columns sporting ornate bases. Vestiges from the temple of Demeter were brought to form the base of the pulpit and stoup. To complete this strange combination there are medieval walls, gothic transepts Renaissance pieces by Filippo Paladino and Guglielmo Borremans and an iron gate from the Castello di Lombardia. Strange, varied yet beautiful.
The Museo Alessi lies off the cathedral. It is at present closed for shortage of funding. It is where the cathedral’s treasury is kept together with the original collection of Giuseppe Alessi. Among its pieces are the golden crown of the Madonna sporting jewels and enamels created by Leonardo and Giuseppe Montalbano in the 17th century.
On Piazza Mazzini you will find an interesting collection of regional pieces housed in the Museo Archeologico di Palazzo Varisano.
Catalan Gothic Palazzo Pollicarini on Piazza Colaianni on Via Roma is an interesting building which is now privately own. However, its central courtyard is open to the curious.
The belvedere looking onto Calascibetta is located on Piazza F Crispi. The place overflows with young people; however it is still a precious setting. The square is crowned by a the reproduction of Giovanni Bernini’s fountain of the rape of Proserpina housed in Galleria Borghese in Rome.
As Enna has been a centre of many different religious cult and paganism, Holy Week gathers all groups in a procession towards the cathedral.
From April to October the races of Formula 3 are held in the Autodromo di Pergusa. The celebration of the patron saint of Enna takes place on 2nd July.
There are fireworks displays and an effigy of Maria Santissima della Visitazione is carried on a cart named “The Golden Ship” along the streets by farmers.
There is an information booth on Piazza Colaianni and a really resourceful tourist information office on Via Roma.
Where to Eat and Drink
The cuisine in Enna is characterized by meat dishes, some mushroom and grilled vegetables. Add to it soup and sausages.
La Fontana is set opposite the famed fountain. Head there for good food and warm atmosphere. In the summer you can enjoy your meals outdoors.
Ristorante Centrale on Piazza VI Dicembre dishes whatever is considered a local speciality. Its menu is not fixed.
Holding a Slow Food badge Antica Hostaria on Via Castagna makes an excellent restaurant. For pizza in a young atmosphere check out Pizzeria da Gino (Viale Marconi) or Da Marino (Viale C Savoca).
Good coffees, snacks, drinks and aperitifs attract a clientele of people over 25 all year long.
How to Get to/around/away
BY BUS: to Catania( length: 1 ½ hours, services: 10 a day from Mon-Sat, only 3 a day on Sun), to Palermo( length: 1 ¾ hours, services: 6 a day from Mon-Sat, only 1 on Sun), to Agrigento (length. 1 hour, services:3 a day from Mon-Fri), to Piazza Armerina (length: 45 minutes, services: 8 a day from Mon-Sat, only 2 on Sun). Local buses operate from the railway station to the town every hour but on Sundays, which take longer. BY TAXI: Off the bus station on Viale Diaz you will find a taxi rank.
BY TRAIN: to Caltanissetta (length: 40 minutes, services: 7 a day), to Catania (services: 7 a day), to Palermo (services: 4 a day). Tickets are available from the platform machine.
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